Coastal and Marine DynamicsOcean Waves and Remote SensingOceanographic and Atmospheric Processes

Bingchen Liu, F. Feddersen, S. Suanda, M. Spydell, Mark A. Merrifield

2026.2.2JOURNAL OF PHYSICAL OCEANOGRAPHY

DOI: 10.1175/jpo-d-25-0161.1

Abstract

Spatially variable wave breaking generates vorticity in the surfzone, leading to transient rip currents (TRC), driving exchange between the surfzone and inner shelf. However, breaking-wave vorticity forcing is poorly understood, including its dependence on wave dissipation, directional spread, and beach slope. Using 72 Boussinesq model simulations on a planar beach, we examine the alongshore, cross- and time-lagged covariance of the vorticity forcing. The covariance is decomposed into separable functions, whose form and associated four dimensional parameters (forcing standard deviation , peak alongshore wavenumber , propagation speed , and decorrelation time-scale ) are derived from the simulations. The alongshore wavenumber spectrum can be represented by a Weibull distribution. In a crest-following reference frame, the time-lagged covariance decays exponentially. The cross-crest lagged covariance changes sign as seen in example vorticity forcing. The parameters and are nondimensionlized by water depth, beach slope, and wave dissipation. The resulting non-dimensional parameters scale well and increase with breakpoint wave directional spread σ θb up to 13.5°. The propagation speed is scaled by . Breakpoint significant wave height and gravity nondimensionalize , and the non-dimensional depends upon the normalized vorticity forcing magnitude / . With focus upon covariance, we lose phase information on the alongshore wave-crest coherence. The simulations are limited in parameter space. We present a pathway for parameterizing vorticity forcing. As wave-averaged (WA) models do not include vorticity forcing, a parameterization could enable WA model study of interacting TRC and inner shelf processes over large regions.

Citation format

LIU, Bingchen, et al. Scaling breaking-wave vorticity generation in the surfzone. JOURNAL OF PHYSICAL OCEANOGRAPHY, 2026, 56(4): 781–799.