From bikinis to boardshorts: wahines and the paradoxes of surfing culture.

Girls do fine when it comes to housework, raising children, doing office work, doing the twist and riding the small surf at Malibu. More and more girls are surfing, and I’m glad to see it. There’s nothing more beautiful than a wellshaped girl riding a six-foot wave with the wind blowing through her hair. But one thing I can’t stand is girls riding (or attempting to ride) big waves. Why? Well, you see, girls are much more emotional than men and therefore have a greater tendency to panic. And panic can be extremely dangerous in big surf. Girls are weaker than men and have a lesser chance for survival in giant wipeouts. Girls are better off and look more feminine riding average size waves. —Pioneer big-wave rider Buzzy Trent